I am finally, getting my "special winter post" out!
This post is all about winter tricks and techniques for taking care of your horse! There were a couple people who willingly gave some advice. I think this was such a fun idea! I hope you enjoy!
American Girl from
Paola's Horse Blog shared some of her winter tips and advice.
Horses need extra fiber during the
winter, such as hay. This forage ferments in the horse's digestive
tract, thus producing heat. Remember that horses don't get as cold as
easily as us people. The horse can be fairly comfortable if the
temperature is in the 30s and won't need too much extra fiber. However,
in the single digits (Fahrenheit) they will need the extra feed and
possible a blanket if they have been body clipped. Wind, rain, and snow
can also make it feel colder, so remember to take that into account.
Ruffles from
Just A Girl and Her Horse shared these lovely winter tips.
- I always put rugs on my horses - especially as they are on 24/7
turnout. Horses that are wet plus rain equals a very cold horse. Unless you have a very hardy
self sufficient horse, they will get cold and drop weight after some time.
- Because it gets darker earlier you may not always have time to ride
so a quick lunge or free schooling or even just a groom/hand walk will be
fine instead of riding.
- After you ride always make sure your horse is completely dry and warm before leaving the barn.
Yours Truly- The Country Hitching Post.
One of the biggest things for me in the winter time is, water. What I have found to be very helpful when dealing with frozen water, is get a smaller bucket for your horse. Don't try to keep your big 15-50 gallon tubs thawed. That can be so much work and then to come back later that day and have a huge layer of ice on it, is just so discouraging. I got Chester about a five gallon sized bucket and I fill it morning and night. I sometimes go out there in the afternoon and check on it. But I know if you work and have school you can't always do that. So, if the buckets to small for you get a little bigger one.
Another important thing is to keep your hay dry. Moldy wet hay is Not good for horses.
Another helpful tip I have found, is to fatten your horses up in the fall. If your horse as been out on fresh grass all summer you may not have that problem. But if not, you can up the amount of hay you give them to start getting more fat on their body for the winter. That way when the cold weather comes they can sufficiently keep themselves nice and warm.
Here are a few suggestions that I collected from around. (Internet) (I didn't write these.)
1. Spend time with your horse
during winter. Even when the weather is foul and bleak, be sure to sit
with your horse in the shelter and talk to him, groom him, and just be
with him. He'll appreciate your company and it keeps the two of you
connected. It will also help you to look forward to the better winter
riding days, and the warmer days to come.
- Keep a regular grooming time in place during winter, no matter what the weather.
- If you can't get to your horse as often as you'd like because of
winter conditions on roads, etc., have someone else check in on your
horse regularly to make sure he's fine.
2. The worst problem: frozen water
There is no greater aggravation than toting water in the cold when
the pipes or hoses freeze. Plan now to get frost-free hydrants installed
where the horses are watered. You will bless them daily as the
temperatures stay below freezing. You still must remove and drain hoses
each day.
When temperatures go below freezing it is easier to fill the buckets
half full, if you can check them more frequently. This will keep you
from coming down to a bucket full of ice. A little ice on the top can be
easily broken and removed. A little ice on the bottom can be defrosted
with the water put on top. If frozen solid a few gallons of hot water
will melt it.
Keeping troughs from freezing may require insulating or partially
burying of the sides and covering the top, leave a hole large enough to
allow the horses to drink. Make sure the trough is in the sunniest place
available. Water heaters are available and water turbulence from pumps
or aerators will prevent freezing. Whatever you do, you must prevent
electric cables from being chewed.
3. Hoof care is more important when it is wet
Hooves may need special attention during the winter. Consider having
the shoes removed if you will not be riding for three or more months.
The nails weaken the walls and the shoe helps hold in dirt. Going
barefoot will also toughen the soles. For problem feet there is no
better prescription than being barefoot for several months. If ice is a
serious problem where you live pulling the shoes may result in more
slipping. Instead consider having the farrier add caulks to aid traction
on frozen surfaces.
If your horse has problems with wall cracks that
originate at the bottom you can do something to help. The cracks are
usually due to excessive drying that comes from repeated wetting and
drying.
Walls also crack from being allowed to grow too long. Regular
application of a hoof wall sealant (avoid moisturizers) combined with
timely trimming will insure that come spring his hoof walls will be
ready to hold nails.
Another frequent problem in the winter is thrush, that black smelly
goo around the frog. Though rarely a cause of lameness itself it can
lead to other serious problems. Thrush prospers in a wet, dirty
environment. A clean dry stall and regular hoof picking is all that is
required to prevent the problem. If you already have the problem, a
formalin-based hoof paint will quickly dry up the rotting mess.
Preparing Your Horse for Winter
By: Dr. Lydia Gray
Hot chocolate, mittens and roaring fires keep us warm on cold winter
nights. But what about horses? What can you do to help them through the
bitter cold, driving wind and icy snow? Below are tips to help you and
your horse not only survive but thrive during yet another frosty season.
Nutrition
Your number one responsibility to your horse during winter is to make
sure he receives enough quality feedstuffs to maintain his weight and
enough drinkable water to maintain his hydration. Forage, or hay, should
make up the largest portion of his diet, 1 – 2 % of his body weight per
day. Because horses burn calories to stay warm, fortified grain can be
added to the diet to keep him at a body condition score of 5 on a scale
of 1 (emaciated) to 9 (obese). If your horse is an easy keeper, will not
be worked hard, or should not have grain for medical reasons, then a
ration balancer or complete multi-vitamin/mineral supplement is a better
choice than grain. Increasing the amount of hay fed is the best way to
keep weight on horses during the winter, as the fermentation process
generates internal heat.
Research performed at the University of Pennsylvania School of
Veterinary Medicine showed that if during cold weather horses have only
warm water available, they will drink a greater volume per day than if
they have only icy cold water available. But if they have a choice
between warm and icy water simultaneously, they drink almost exclusively
from the icy and drink less volume than if they have only warm water
available. The take home message is this: you can increase your horse's
water consumption by only providing warm water. This can be accomplished
either by using any number of bucket or tank heaters or by adding hot
water twice daily with feeding. Another method to encourage your horse
to drink more in winter (or any time of the year) is to topdress his
feed with electrolytes.
Exercise
It may be tempting to give your horse some "down-time" during winter,
but studies have found that muscular strength, cardiovascular fitness
and overall flexibility significantly decrease even if daily turnout is
provided. And as horses grow older, it takes longer and becomes more
difficult each spring to return them to their previous level of work.
Unfortunately, exercising your horse when it's cold and slippery or
frozen can be challenging.
First, work with your farrier to determine if your horse has the best
traction with no shoes, regular shoes, shoes with borium added, shoes
with "snowball" pads, or some other arrangement. Do your best to lunge,
ride or drive in outside areas that are not slippery. Indoor arenas can
become quite dusty in winter so ask if a binding agent can be added to
hold water and try to water (and drag) as frequently as the temperature
will permit. Warm up and cool down with care. A good rule of thumb is to
spend twice as much time at these aspects of the workout than you do
when the weather is warm. And make sure your horse is cool and dry
before turning him back outside or blanketing.
Blanketing
A frequently asked question is: does my horse need a blanket? In
general, horses with an adequate hair coat, in good flesh and with
access to shelter probably do not need blanketed. However, horses that
have been clipped, recently transported to a cold climate, or are thin
or sick may need the additional warmth and protection of outerwear.
Horses begin to grow their longer, thicker winter coats in July,
shedding the shorter, thinner summer coats in October. The summer coat
begins growing in January with March being prime shedding season. This
cycle is based on day length—the winter coat is stimulated by decreasing
daylight, the summer coat is stimulated by increasing daylight. Owners
can inhibit a horse's coat primarily through providing artificial
daylight in the fall but also by clothing their horse as the temperature
begins to fall. If the horse's exercise routine in the winter causes
him to sweat and the long hair hampers the drying and cooling down
process, body clipping may be necessary. Blanketing is then a must.
Health
There are a number of health conditions that seem to be made worse by
the winter environment. The risk of impaction colic may be decreased by
stimulating your horse to drink more water either by providing warm
water as the only source or feeding electrolytes. More time spent inside
barns and stalls can exacerbate respiratory conditions like "heaves"
(now called recurrent airway obstruction), GI conditions like ulcers,
and musculoskeletal conditions like degenerative joint disease. Control
these problems with appropriate management—such as increasing
ventilation in the barn and increasing turnout time—and veterinary
intervention in the form of medications and supplements.
Freeze/thaw cycles and muddy or wet conditions can lead to thrush in the
hooves and "scratches," or, pastern dermatitis, on the legs. Your best
protection against these diseases is keeping the horse in as clean and
dry surroundings as possible, picking his feet frequently, and keeping
the lower limbs trimmed of hair. Another common winter skin condition is
"rain rot," caused by the organism Dermatophilus congolensis. Regular
grooming and daily observation can usually prevent this problem, but
consult your veterinarian if your horse's back and rump develop painful,
crusty lumps that turn into scabs.
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I hope you enjoyed my Winter Tricks and Techniques post! I think there was more winter advice then tricks and techniques. I think it turned out nicely though and am very appreciative for the people who participated!
Special thanks to Ruffles and American Girl! Thank you!
